There’s something undeniably charming about the British seaside—the call of seagulls, the scent of salty air, and the simple joy of wrapping your hands around a warm parcel of fish and chips. As the Vaycay Couple, we embarked on a culinary pilgrimage across the United Kingdom to uncover the finest examples of this classic dish: battered fish with thick-cut fries, often accompanied by a side of mushy peas.
History of Fish and Chips
Our journey began with an appreciation for the humble origins of fish and chips. This quintessential British meal dates back to the 19th century, serving as affordable sustenance for the working class. Today, it remains a beloved staple, bridging generations with its crispy batter and fluffy chips.
Whitby’s Gem: The Magpie Café
- Address: 14 Pier Road, Whitby, North Yorkshire, YO21 3PU
- Location: Situated by the picturesque harbour of Whitby, offering stunning sea views.
- Prices: A classic fish and chips meal ranges from £12 to £15.
Our first stop was the historic town of Whitby in North Yorkshire. Perched by the harbour, The Magpie Café is a storied establishment that has been serving fish and chips since 1939. As we walked in, the aroma of freshly fried fish enveloped us. The haddock, sourced straight from the North Sea, was encased in a light, golden batter that shattered delicately with each bite. Paired with chunky chips and homemade mushy peas, it set a high bar for the rest of our journey.
Scottish Delights at Anstruther Fish Bar
- Address: 42-44 Shore Street, Anstruther, Fife, KY10 3AQ
- Location: Nestled in the coastal village of Anstruther, overlooking the Firth of Forth.
- Prices: Expect to pay between £10 and £13 for a generous portion.
Crossing into Scotland, we arrived at the charming village of Anstruther. The Anstruther Fish Bar, a family-run spot, boasts numerous awards—and for good reason. We opted for the classic cod and were not disappointed. The fish was succulent, the batter crispy, and the chips perfectly cooked. The addition of a tangy tartar sauce and a wedge of lemon elevated the experience. We enjoyed our meal overlooking the harbour, watching fishing boats bob gently on the waves.
London’s Legacy: Poppies Fish and Chips
- Address: 6-8 Hanbury Street, London, E1 6QR (with additional locations in Camden and Soho)
- Location: Located in the vibrant area of Spitalfields, rich with history and culture.
- Prices: A standard fish and chips dish costs around £15 to £18.
No fish and chips tour would be complete without a visit to London. In the heart of the city, Poppies stands as a testament to tradition. Decorated with 1950s memorabilia, the restaurant offers a nostalgic trip down memory lane. The plaice fillet we tried was impeccably fresh, and the chips were served in a mock newspaper wrapping—a nod to the old way of serving fish and chips. The mushy peas here had a hint of mint, adding a refreshing twist.
Nottingham’s Catch: The Cod’s Scallops
- Address: 170 Bramcote Lane, Wollaton, Nottingham, NG8 2QP (also with other locations around Nottingham)
- Location: Situated in the suburban area of Wollaton, known for its friendly community vibe.
- Prices: Meals range from £9 to £12, with options to add sides like curry sauce for a small extra fee.
Venturing into the Midlands, The Cod’s Scallops in Nottingham offered a modern take while honouring classic flavours. Their menu featured an array of seafood options, but we stayed true to our mission. The battered cod was enormous, almost spilling off the plate. What set this place apart was their unique sides—we couldn’t resist trying the curry sauce dip with our chips, a delightful fusion of flavours.
Northern Treasures at Colman’s
- Address: 186 Ocean Road, South Shields, Tyne and Wear, NE33 2JQ
- Location: Located near the South Shields coastline, offering a cozy, family-friendly atmosphere.
- Prices: Traditional fish and chips start at around £8 to £11.
Our final stop took us to South Shields, where Colman’s has been frying up fish and chips since 1905. The family-run establishment prides itself on sustainability, using locally sourced fish. The atmosphere was warm and welcoming, and the staff treated us like old friends. We indulged in battered hake, a choice we hadn’t encountered elsewhere. The fish was flaky and rich, complemented by perfectly crisp chips and traditional mushy peas.
The Verdict
Reflecting on our journey, we realized that each location offered something unique, yet all shared a common thread of dedication to quality and tradition. From the seaside charm of The Magpie Café to the familial warmth of Colman’s, our quest was as much about the people and places as it was about the food.
So, which was our favourite? It’s hard to choose just one. Each bite across the UK told a story of heritage and community. Perhaps the true beauty of fish and chips lies not just in its taste but in its ability to bring people together, sharing in a simple yet profound culinary experience.
Tips for Fellow Travelers
- Check Opening Hours: Some establishments have seasonal hours or close on certain days, so it’s wise to check ahead.
- Reservations Recommended: Especially during peak times, booking a table can save you a wait.
- Local Recommendations: Don’t hesitate to ask locals for their favourite spots—you might discover a hidden gem.
- Explore the Menu: While the classic fish and chips are a must-try, many places offer regional specialties or unique sides worth sampling.
- Cash or Card: Some smaller establishments may prefer cash payments, so it’s good to have some on hand.
As we wrapped up our journey, one thing was clear: the UK’s love affair with fish and chips is as strong as ever, and we were grateful to have tasted a piece of that enduring romance.
