Updated July 21, 2025 – 100 % first‑hand experience
Dreaming of island-hopping across turquoise waters, volcanic peaks, and laid-back beach towns? Cape Verde delivers all that and more, without the crowds. In this guide, we at VayCay Couple are sharing our 12-day Cape Verde itinerary for exploring this stunning Atlantic archipelago.
Why trust our guide?
We spent 12 days, 8 islands and 1100 nautical miles chasing grooves, dunes and crater rims across Cape Verde. We slept in lava‑stone casas, counted nesting turtles alongside conservationists, and interviewed ferry crews for timetables that barely exist online. Everything below was verified in spring 2025 and cross‑checked with locals again in July 2025.
✔️ 100 % self‑funded trip ✔️ No paid placements ✔️ Prices quoted in euros & escudos
Snapshot Itinerary (TL;DR)
| Day | Island | Key Experiences | Overnight |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | Santiago | Cidade Velha tour, Tarrafal surfing, batuku drumming | Tarrafal |
| 3 | Fogo | Summit Pico do Fogo, lava‑tube wine tasting | Chã das Caldeiras |
| 4 | Brava | Flower coast hike, seafood grill on pier | Nova Sintra |
| 5–6 | Boa Vista | Viana Desert quads, loggerhead patrol | Sal Rei |
| 7–8 | Sal | Kite Beach lessons, Pedra de Lume salt spa | Santa Maria |
| 9 | São Vicente | Mindelo murals, live coladeira & morna | Mindelo |
| 10 | Santo Antão | Paul Valley trek, grogue distilleries | Ponta do Sol |
| 11 | São Nicolau | Monte Gordo pines, colonial Ribeira Brava | Ribeira Brava |
| 12 | Santiago | Plateau market shopping, farewell beach BBQ | Praia |
When is the best time to visit Cape Verde?
| Month | Temp °C | Rain mm | Wind | Best for |
| Jan–Mar | 21‑26 | ≤3 | NE trade 20 kt | Kitesurfing, hiking cool cliffs |
| Apr–Jun | 23‑28 | 0‑5 | NE trade 15 kt | Volcano climbs, street festivals |
| Jul–Sep | 24‑30 | 20‑60* | SE breeze 10 kt | Turtle nesting, warm surf |
| Oct | 25‑29 | 15 | Variable | Lush valleys on Santo Antão |
| Nov–Dec | 22‑27 | 5 | NE trade 18 kt | Photogenic blue skies |
Rain falls in short evening bursts; pack a light shell, then enjoy dust‑free air next morning.
Pre‑Trip Checklist 🔍
Passport validity: Minimum 6 months on arrival.
E‑visa: Apply online 5+ days before (€32 including airport security fee).
Travel insurance: Must cover volcanic trekking & motorbike hire.
Vaccines: Routine shots; consider Hep A & Typhoid if eating lots of street food.
Cash: Bring €200 in notes; exchange at BCA desks for best rate.
eSIM: Airalo “CV Surf” 10 GB for €19 works island‑wide. 5G only in Praia & Mindelo.
Getting Around
Planes vs Ferries
Domestic flights: TACV & BestFly operate ATR‑72 turboprops; hand‑luggage limit 6 kg. Book 4–6 weeks out, seats disappear after local campaign fares.
Ferries: Slow but scenic; budget 30 % buffer for delays. Buy tickets on‑site; websites often out‑of‑date. Seas roughest Jan–Mar.
DIY vs Package
DIY booking saves ~25 % but requires flexibility. If you only have a week, consider agencies like BuCountry that bundle tickets with guides.
Detailed 12‑Day Cape Verde Route
Days 1–2 | Santiago – Drums, Cachupa & Cliff‑Top Breezes
Morning: Cidade Velha (UNESCO): Follow the cobbled Rua Banana, believed to be the oldest European street in the tropics. Pop into the Nossa Senhora do Rosário church; the first all‑stone church in sub‑Saharan Africa.
Mid‑day: Tarrafal Road Trip (1 hr): Shared aluguers leave Sucupira market every 15 min for 700 CVE. Sit left‑side for ocean views as the Serra Malagueta range unfolds.
Afternoon: Learn to Surf: Tarrafal’s point break is gentle at mid‑tide. Two‑hour lesson with Baía Surf School costs €20 incl. board.
Evening: Batuku & Strela: Friday nights, the Associação Batuku troupe drums under mango trees. Grab a chilled Strela Kriola lager and join the barefoot circle.
Budget bed: Tietche House dorm €15. | Splash‑out: King Fisher Village sea‑view suites €120.
Day 3 | Fogo – Walk on a Volcano’s Shoulder
Pre‑sunrise flight: Praia 06:00 ➜ São Filipe 06:20. Right‑side window = lava cone selfie.
Transport to Crater: Hilux trucks (2 h, 2000 CVE pp) climb hairpins beyond coffee plantations. Brief stop at Pico António viewpoint for crater panorama.
Pico do Fogo Trek (3–4 h up / 1 h slide down):
Gradient: 28 % average, max 35 %.
Terrain: Coarse scoria; gaiters keep stones out.
Permit: Not required, yet guides strongly recommended: contact Guide Alcindo (+238 981 33 02).
Post‑climb reward: Taste floral Chã das Caldeiras white wine (Yes, vines at 1700 m!). Pair with goat cheese drizzled in quince jam.
Day 4 | Brava – The Isle That Smells of Petals
Brava’s nickname, Ilha das Flores, is no cliché: crimson hibiscus spills onto basalt lanes. Rent a scooter (1500 CVE) and cruise from Nova Sintra’s pastel mansions to Cova Joana viewpoints.
Hike: Nova Sintra ➜ Fajã d’Água (2 h): Stone shepherd trail descends 600 m to a horseshoe bay once used by whalers. Bring snorkel, the old customs house wall shelters octopus.
Dinner tip: Pensão Nice grills grouper with passion‑fruit sauce (€10). Ask for homemade grogue de mel (honey‑infused rum). Sweet but deadly.
Days 5–6 | Boa Vista – Sand, Turtles & Stillness
Getting there: Option A — 07:00 ferry Brava➜Praia, connect afternoon flight to Boa Vista. | Option B — Overnight cabin via Sal (fun but 13 h).
Daytime — Viana Desert Safari: Quad & Buggy tours leave Rabil village (2 h, €55). Fine quartz dunes sparkle like sugar; bring scarf for face.
Sunset — Shipwreck MV Cabo Santa Maria: Drive 30 min north of Sal Rei; rusting hull on a shallow reef makes surreal photos.
Night — Turtle Patrol (Jul–Sep):
Meet at Marine Turtle Foundation HQ 20:00.
Max 10 guests; red lights only.
Donation: €25 funds nest monitors.
Eco‑Stay: Boa Vista Social Club – solar‑powered rooms & zero‑plastic policy.
Days 7–8 | Sal – Salt Flats, Wind & Garlic‑Soaked Lapas
Morning — Kitesurf 101: Wind speeds 15–25 kt; lagoon waist‑deep. KiteSchool CV offers half‑day intro (€75 incl. gear).
Mid‑afternoon — Pedra de Lume: Float in 26 % salinity water (twice Dead Sea). Shower tokens €1 worth it or you’ll itch! Historic cable buckets overhead once hauled salt to the pier.
Evening — Pier Tapas Crawl, Santa Maria:
Chez Pastis: octopus carpaccio.
Bar Aquarius: sizzling lapas with garlic, parsley & olive oil.
Ponta Preta sunset bar: order caipirinha de grogue, meets sugarcane fire.
Budget: Hostel Arco Iris dorm €18. | Luxury: Hilton Cabo Verde spa rooms €220.
Day 9 | São Vicente – Mindelo in Bare Feet
Mindelo feels Caribbean‑Lisbon hybrid. Morning espresso (bica) at Café Royal (Cesária Évora’s haunt). Wander fish market frescoes—watch swordfish carved with machetes.
Laginha Chill: Hire stand‑up paddle (€10/hr); water turquoise and flat. Shower blocks now rebuilt after 2024 storms.
Nightlife Circuit:
Casa da Morabeza – live coladeira 21:30.
Caravela – rooftop DJ & craft rum 23:30.
Diskoteka Kalimba – Afro‑house till 04:00.
Uber‑style app YaTaxi works; rides within Mindelo <300 CVE.
Day 10 | Santo Antão – Stairways of Stone & Sugarcane Mist
Estrada da Corda: Hire 4×4 + driver Jorge (+238 994 45 67) for €60/day; stop at Delgadinho Ridge where two valleys drop either side like a knife‑edge.
Paul Valley Trek (signature): Length 8 km; descent 900 m. Pass coffee groves, dragon‑tree orchards, sugarcane presses. Refill bottle at spring by Casa de Pepe—water tested potable.
Dinner in Ponta do Sol: O Curral serves cachupa refogada (fried leftovers) with poached egg—comfort after hiking.
Day 11 | São Nicolau – The Quiet Island Nobody Talks About (Yet)
Few visitors means raw authenticity. Ride a 125 cc scooter (2500 CVE/day) from colonial Ribeira Brava to Carbeirinho Cliffs—undercut sandstone caves glowing copper at low sun.
Monte Gordo Microclimate: Pines, eucalyptus, wild strawberries! Signposted loop (3 km) starts at ranger hut; fog adds Lord‑of‑the‑Rings ambiance.
Tip: No ATMs outside Ribeira Brava—withdraw before you roam.
Day 12 | Back to Santiago – Departure & Souvenirs
Return via morning BestFly flight. Stock up on grogue bottles (wrap in clothing) and certified turtle‑friendly coffee from Fogo at Mercado Municipal.
Sunset Farewell BBQ: Quebra Canela beach kiosks grill cavala (mackerel) for 400 CVE. Locals mix grogue with Sprite for a cheeky caipisprite—join them.
Practical Tips
Language: Kriolu for street banter; Portuguese everywhere official; English in tourist hubs.
Electricity: Blackouts common on Brava & Santo Antão—pack 10 000 mAh bank.
Safety: Islands rank safe; pick‑pocketing in Praia Plateau at night—use registered taxis.
Drones: Allowed ≤120 m; no‑fly within 3 km of airports; always announce to locals first.
Eco‑Etiquette: Leave hatchlings alone, use reef‑safe sunscreen, buy crafts directly from artisans.
Cost Breakdown (Mid‑Range Traveler)
| Category | 12‑Day Total (€) | Notes |
| Flights | 250 | 4 hops book 30 days out |
| Ferries | 90 | 3 tickets inc. cabin upgrade |
| Lodging | 440 | Avg €40/night double room |
| Food & Drink | 260 | Street eats + 3 splurge dinners |
| Tours & Guides | 200 | Volcano, turtle, quads |
| Local Transport | 80 | Shared vans & moto |
| Grand Total | ≈ 1320 € | ± 10 % seasonal swings |
Island‑hopping Cape Verde is like flicking through a multisensory scrapbook: drumbeats in Santiago, volcanic dust on Fogo, flower perfume on Brava, Sahara sand on Boa Vista, salt crystals on Sal, jazz riffs floating across Mindelo bay, fern‑draped cliffs of Santo Antão, and pine‑scented breezes on São Nicolau. This 12‑day journal‑guide is a launchpad—swap islands, linger longer, or dive deeper into one. Share your tweaks in the comments, stories grow sweeter when swapped. Boa viagem!
How long do I need to see more than one island?
One week lets you pair two close islands (e.g., Sal + Boa Vista or Santiago + Fogo). Add 3–4 days per extra island.
Is Boa Vista good for first timers?
Yes. Direct flights from Europe, calm beaches, and English‑speaking turtle guides make it beginner‑friendly.
Can I climb Pico do Fogo without a guide?
Legally yes, but local guides know safe scree lines and their €35 fee supports Chã das Caldeiras families.
Will I find vegetarian food?
In cities, yes, look for bean cachupa, fried plantain, and couscous. In villages, request “sem carne / sem peixe” 24 h ahead.
Is the ocean cold?
Sea temperature stays 22–26 °C year‑round; no wetsuit needed.
